Just returned from my company retreat to China – A jam-packed 4 days trip to Hangzhou, Zhou Zhuang before ending it at Shanghai, the city of stunning contrast! Been swamped with work (renovation of store and planning of the Wellness schedule for my company) since I got back from Shanghai so I reckon that it will take me awhile to blog about Shanghai.
This island has been described as a little piece of idyllic paradise, complete with lush greenery, a host of flora and pristine swimming lagoons. No passport needed. In fact, you can even leave your money back home ( just prepare a little cash for the ferry ride) as there is simply nothing for you to purchase on this tiny island. So, you might ask … Where’s this precious gem? It’s none other than Singapore’s St John Island. I’ve been wanting to visit this island ever since I laid my eyes on the scenic pictures taken of its shore and lagoons. Unfortunately, the plan has never materialized until 2 weeks back when we could finally find the perfect time and weather for our mini weekend getaway to St John Island! 🙂
1-Day Getaway
More about St John Island
Situated at the south of Singapore, St John Island (also known as Pulau Sakijang Bendera) is a 20 mins boat ride from the main island (depart from Marina South Ferry Terminal). The island was first used as a quarantine holding area for cholera-stricken immigrants back in 1874. All Asian immigrants who were infected with cholera had to be housed in an attap house until they were given a clean bill of health to finally enter into the main island. Similar to how Ellis Island (writing about St John Island brings back fond memories of our visit to Ellis Island, NY back in 2008) was once the gateway for the millions of immigrants who immigrated to USA, St John Island was the first port of call for immigrants who were hoping to embark on a new chapter of their lives in Singapore. The scale of immigration was so large that it turned the island into a world-recognized quarantine centre.
As the years went by, St John Island was also used for various functions – As a penal settlement site to hold political detainees (3rd President, Devan Nair stayed there for 2 years as he was charged for anti-colonial movements) and secret society ringleaders and later, a drug rehabilitation centre for opium-addicts.
As of today, the island is home to the Tropical Marine Science Institute and AVA Marine Aquaculture Centre (Trespassers will be prosecuted). Visitors who wish to get away from the hustle of the city life might also be delighted to know that there are cheap accommodation (Detention Centre turned Holiday Chalets) easily available on the island.
Clear, blue lagoons that are swamped with tiny fishes!
Watch Towers that are situated around the island
Once used as a detention centre to house immigrants as well as drug addicts, these buildings have now been converted into holiday chalets for those who are interested in a cheap island getaway!
Barbed wire fencing to deter those who contemplate to escape
What a weird sight – A giant Chessboard that was located in the middle of the campsite! According to an article in One-North Explorers, St John Island was used to house the Prisoners-Of-War (POW) during World War 2. As such, it was rumored that the hardhearted Japanese soldiers had enlisted these POWs as real-life chess pieces. Any chess piece (the POWs) that was “eaten” will eventually be beheaded on the spot. Rumors has it that campers would often hear bloodcurdling screams and tormenting screams of pain in the middle of the dark, lonely night.
The 4-legged residents of St John Island
Perhaps, the most haunting sight that I’ve seen during my short visit to the island – 6 pairs of glistering yellow eyes staring straight back at me. Gave me the creeps and I couldn’t wait to run away from them.
Kampong houses that are currently used as staff quarters
An abandoned Black-White Colonial Building
The servants’ quarters that was located right behind the main building
The Masjid (Mosque) at St John’s Island. This place-of-worship is still used by the residents of the island although we probably spotted many more of its 4-legged residents (cats) than their human friends.
A stairway leading up to a block of abandoned building. Apparently, rumors has it that many adventure-seekers have encountered many paranormal experiences in this building itself. According to the blog entry at One-North Explorers, there was an infamous story about a thrill-seeker who managed to record a video of a ghostly figure strolling down the stairs. Needless to say, he was petrified and fled from the scene although the horrifying sight was so terrifying that it continued to haunt him for the days to come. As such, he decided to delete the video so that there will not be any reminder of his encounter with those from the Netherworld.
Being the coward that I am (when it comes to supernatural stuff), we decided not to venture deeper to check out the interior of the building. However, do check out the pics by the gungho team from One-North Explorers! A peak into a “haunted” house!
Picturesque views of the lagoon. An irresistible urge to frolick in the waters and skinny dip! An old pier that is in ruins
Despite its miniature size (we completed a walking tour around the island in 3hrs!), there are certainly many nooks and crannies to satisfy the adventure seekers! All you need is a thirst for adventure and you’re all set to go! An island that is so steeped in history in spite of its relatively “young age”. However, do not expect St John Island to offer breath-taking beach views like those in Tioman or Redang although I must admit that the lagoons are much clearer than those found on main island or in Sentosa.
A check off my TO-DO List – To visit St John Island.
So, I’ve taken a long break from completing the travelogue for our not-too-recent trip to Cambodia. Was just too bogged down by work and the monotony of life, I call it the “Quarter Life Crisis” but this would warrant a whole different post altogether. Back to the topic, there’s a high possibility that we will be making a return trip to Cambodia to visit the kids sometime in the next quarter! 🙂
Considering that the Angkor temples are synonymous with a visit to Cambodia, we thus engaged a tuk-tuk driver to bring us to the remaining Angkor temples located in the grand circuit. Temples located in the grand circuit are slightly further from the heart of the city as compared to the more popular temples within the small circuit (Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm) hence they tend to be less crowded. Good for us!
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Preah Khan
Constructed: 12th Century C.E.
Reign: King Jayavarman VII
Religion: Buddhist
Style: Bayon
“Preah Khan is a huge, highly explorable monastic complex. It originally served as a Buddhist monastery and school, engaging over 1000 monks. Preah Khan was also used as a residence for King Jayavarman VII during the reconstruction of his permanent home in Angkor Thom. It means “Sacred Sword” and is dedicated to King Jayavarman VII’s father.” *
Must visit factor: ****/ 5 stars
* Info from Siem Reap Angkor Visitors’ Guide
Having visited many temples during my stay in Siem Reap, it thus doesn’t come as a surprise to hear that we were pretty templed-out and were less than fascinated by some of the temples (some started looking the same after awhile!). Nonetheless, Preah Khan is certainly 1 of the monastic temple complex that stood out. Its relatively massive size gave us the opportunity to explore the surroundings and discover the many nooks and crannies at our own pace. Best to visit early in the morning when it ain’t too crowded with tourists.
Neak Pean
Constructed: Late 12th Century C.E.
Reign: Jayavarman VII
Religion: Buddhism
Style: Bayon
“A small island temple located in the middle of the last baray to be constructed by a Khmer king in the Angkor area. The central temple sits at the axis of a cross or lotus pattern of eight pools. Four connected pools symbolises Water, Fire, Earth and Wind. Neak Pean may have served as absolution function, and the waters were thought to have healing properties.” *
Must visit factor: ***/5 stars
Ta Som
Constructed: Late 12th Century C.E.
Reign: King Jayavarman VII
Religion: Buddhism
Style: Bayon
“Small, classic Bayon-style monastic complex consisting of a relatively flat enclosure, face tower gopuras and cruciform interior sanctuaries much like a miniature version of Ta Prohm. Many of the carvings are in good condition and display particularly fine execution for late 12th Century works.” *
Must visit factor: ***/ 5 stars
A smaller-scale version of Ta Prohm, Ta Som is often considered the less-visited “cousin”. Nevertheless, the intricate and well-preserved carvings and details, along with the huge trees within the complex, have made the temple extremely photogenic.
East Mebon
Constructed: Late 10th Century C.E.
Reign: King Rajendravarman II
Religion: Hindu
Style: Pre Rup
“East Mebon is a large temple-mountain-like ruin, rising 3 levels and crowned by 5 towers. The temple is dedicated to Shiva, in honor of the king’s parents. Inscriptions also indicate that it was also built to establish the continuity of kingship at Angkor in ligt of the interruption that occurred when the seat of power has been moved to Koh Ker.” *
Must visit factor: ***/ 5 stars
Pre Rup
Constructed: Late 10th Century C.E.
Reign: King Rajendravarman II
Religion: Hindu
Style: Pre Rup
“Architectually and artistically superior temple-mountain. Traditionally believed to be a funerary temple, but in fact the state temple of King Rajendravarman II. Historically important in that it was the second temple built after Khmer capital was returned to Angkor after a period of political upheaval when the capital moved to Koh Ker. The artistically similar East Mebon was the first to be constructed after the return to Angkor, less than a decade earlier.” *
Must visit factor: ***/ 5 stars
Psar Chaa
Similar to the many open-air markets in Thailand, the items sold in Psar Chaa (Old Market) caters to both locals (who get their basic necessities and groceries) and foreigners (souvenirs and pirated copies of travel guides, duh). Decided to take a stroll along the winding and narrow lanes since we had some time to kill in the afternoon. A great place to window-shop (enjoy the myriad of colours) and people-watch although those who love to shop will find Psar Chaa an ideal place where you can put your bargaining skills to a test!
“Bag Karma” shop operated by the social enterprise, Friends International. It sells an array of handmade and eco-friendly products, e.g. bags/passport holders/purses made of recycled materials. One of the shops that I must visit whenever I’m in Cambodia. You can also find a branch in the Russian Market in Phnom Penh.
ACODO Orphanage, Siem Reap
I first heard about ACODO when I was doing my research in Trip Advisor. Known for its free khmer dance performance that is held every evening, ACODO has certainly came a long way since it was first founded by Mr Hengchhea back in 2008. Other than providing the children with the chance to interact with tourists from all walks of life, this initiative was also started, in hopes to raise awareness of ACODO on an international level and donations to support its cause. True indeed, the Khmer performances have been attracting its fair share of raves as it has been reviewed not only by tourists, but also by big players such as Lonely Planet and Wikitravel.
What a small world! During our short stay in Cambodia, we actually met 2 groups of volunteer students from Singapore, one of whom was attached to ACODO for a short volunteer stint. In comparison to my “era”, there are certainly many more schools that are getting their students involved in such overseas service trips these days. A good platform for the children to be more exposed to the development of our neighbouring countries and also, to keep them humble.
Just spent a couple of days at the idyllic island of Bali. Now, it’s not our practice to splurge on accommodation while abroad (why spend a bomb on hotels/resorts when you should be out exploring the sights and sounds of a new place?!) but considering that our intention was to rest, relax and rejuvenate, we thus figured out that it probably wouldn’t hurt that much to spend a little more on something more luxurious and plush. An excuse to indulge in a one-off occasion to pamper ourselves! Set in a tranquil Balinese-influenced surroundings and lush tropical greenery, The Bali Dream Suite Villa (the sister resort of the more famous The Bali Dream Villa) seems like an intimate place to unwind and relax in style … and best of all, at a fraction of the price that you would have to pay for a similar villa in Singapore!
Outdoor living room The fabulous part? We had a private pool all to ourselves! We might not have the luxury of waking up to the glorious view of the ocean and its crashing waves but the splendid plunge pool made up for the lack of beach views.
Al fresco rain shower
The door at the outdoor shower opens to a spectacular view – green foliage and the mini sky-blue pool.
Beautiful frangipani flowers. Welcome fruit platter. Revitalizing rain shower. Unique “Do not disturb” door sign.
Want to catch a glimpse of the world-famous breathtaking sunset in Bali? Head over to the Sunset On Seminyak (SOS) Rooftop Lounge & Bar at Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa and be dazzled by this sunset experience. Unfortunately for us, leaving the villa (and the oh-so-comfortable bed – we slept like a baby every night!) proved to be such a challenge that we decided to give sunset watching a miss. Come to think of it, we didn’t even get to catch the sunset on either of the 2 evenings that we were there! What a pity! Nonetheless, it was such a delightful experience to be greeted by the panoramic views of the Indian Ocean and be served with such warm hospitality.
Culinary Delights
Believe it or not – 2011 actually marks the first time that we are celebrating Valentine’s Day together, on the actual day itself! The past 3 Valentine’s Days were, unfortunately, spent either at work or CNY visiting (2010). Such a sad love life, aint it?! Famed for its calm and clear waters, Tanjung Benoa (Nusa Dua) is the destination for water sports enthusiasts & amateurs (like us!) as it has something for everyone! Take your pick from the wide range of activities available – from glass bottom boat tours to wake-boarding to snorkeling- but be warned that this area is extremely touristy and crowded!
Took up a marine package that allows us to try jet ski (Our favourite! Gave us such an adrenaline rush to let our hair down & speed around with the jet-ski, accompanied by instructor ), parasailing (Unfortunately, the weather conditions were not favorable and we ended up riding the banana boat instead ) and *best of all* introductory scuba diving! It has always been 1 of my goals to pick up scuba diving one day ( Am currently taking swimming classes to improve my swimming techniques & to learn how to thread water. Yes, it’s such an embarrassment that I can barely survive in water! 😦 ) so this intro dive certainly provided us with a glimpse of what to expect from diving. Freaking exciting although I had a bit of difficulty trying to get accustomed to breathing from an oxygen tank!
Having said that, the view under the sea (only 5 – 8m in depth) was disappointing, to say the least. Pales in comparison to the more stunning views of the marine life in islands off Phuket/Phi Phi/Tioman. For those who might be interested in snorkeling/diving and have the luxury of time, I would certainly advise you to head offshore to nearby islands such as Nusa Lembongan and Menjangan Island, where you will be greeted by the magnificent view from down under!
Job done: Exposed to a new skill in another country (for more info).
Fed bread crumbs to the school of fishes and it felt so surreal to be surrounded by them at such a close proximity 🙂
Cheers to more diving adventures to come!
Spent the later half of the day pampering ourselves at Murano Spa(much thanks to the raves & recommendations at Flowerpod & TA). 4 entire hrs of Bliss & Relaxation – Balinese massage, Body scrub (lulur), wrap, flower bath, facial and hair treatment for 2 pax for only $100! What a fabulous steal!
We were served a hot cup of ginger tea (my fav!) and a plate of cookies to snack while soaking in the bath full of flower petals.
Day 3 came before we could even proclaim “I love my getaway!”. Time flies! Our initial plan was to attend a beginner surfing class (Surfing always looks so cool in movies and shows!) however on second thought, it does seem a little pointless as we will probably never surf again till we visit a surfers’ beach on another vacation. Hence, time for us to lounge by the favorite part of our villa – THE POOL!
Bintang Beer for the Guy, Club Water for the Girl … and the rare occasion when we can go skinny-dipping in the pool without getting caught! Boy, the advantages of a private pool lol. F.R.E.E.D.O.M
One of the reason why we eventually settled for Bali over Phuket was because MK wanted to check out KU DE TA BALI as he is also in the nightlife entertainment industry. Frankly, I think the place is over-hyped and pretentious although I must admit that it scores brownie points for its ideal location – Right in front of the crashing waves. Can’t help but to agree that it’s extremely therapeutic to lay back and enjoy the soothing sounds of the waves whilst sipping a cocktail but that’s about it.
Apologies for the lapse in blogging about our visit to Cambodia. Been simply too busy with work and other freelance assignments that I’ve taken up recently. .
Back to our Cambodian travelogue – Day 4 was spent visiting the countryside and it proved to be a much-needed respite from the previous days of sight-seeing at the temples & ruins *templed out*. In fact, a rural retreat to the scenic countryside was such a welcome for us – city slickers – who are so used to the sights of an urban jungle of concrete and skyscrapers!
Sights of a Cambodian Village (Kro Bei Riel Community, Siem Reap)
Wood and thatch hut on stilts
Drying the rice grains
Al fresco kitchen at a villager’s backyard
A visit to the countryside will not be complete without seeing the farm animals in action. Here’s a pig indulging in its bowl of pig feed!
Skinny piglet!
A visit to the village market to get our grocery supplies as we’ll be joining our host, DomDin, and his family for lunch. And, for a very rare occasion, yours truly will be assisting the family to cook a traditional Khmer lunch.
First stop: To get our daily servings of vegetables
Second stop: Meat stall that was infested with flies and all sorts of insects. Honestly, I was a little hesitant as I wasn’t certain if my stomach could stomach street food and I’ve heard many horror stories about how tourists often ended up with a stomach upset or a bout of diarrhea after consuming food from the streets. Nevertheless, we braved ourselves for this challenge and it turned out that there was no cause of worries at all.
Final result? Whipped up a simple but *haha* delicious dish of mix vegetables & beef ( the dish on the left) using the traditional charcoal stove. An ancient but quaint method of cooking that is still used by many Cambodians in the different villages. Enjoyed the simple home-cooked meal with the company of DomDin’s family and friends as we spent a couple of hours exchanging stories about our different lifestyles, ambitions and recreational activities.
See the yellow liquid stored in those plastic bottles? Bet that you would have never thought that this is a makeshift petrol kiosk that is widely available throughout the whole of Cambodia. A common sight, especially in the countryside and rural parts of the country. And the yellow liquid that you see in the pictures is actually none other than petrol!
Kids attending an afternoon English class, where they were taught the basic ABCs and Numbers ( 1, 2, 3 …) A glimpse of the villagers going about their daily routines
An elderly lady, whose children are currently living in the city to establish a career for themselves, planting vegetables in her small plot of farm.
The lady in the ramshackle hut (below) was weaving baskets and handicrafts to sell to a souvenir marketplace. Weaving is a traditional skill passed down to women from generation after generation and many housewives have taken it up as a means to supplement the household income.
A school girl trying her luck to catch fishes for dinner at the village canal
Our very bubbly and lovable co-host, Raksa ( affectionately known as ‘RockStar’ ) showing us a live demonstration on how to use the village water distribution system that was built by the United Nations.
The little girl who stole our hearts – DomDin’s photogenic niece who begged and pleaded with her father to bring her to the hospital to visit her younger sister who was hospitalized.
Ending our memorable day at the countryside with an unforgettable ox-cart ride! In my 23 yrs, I’ve been fortunate enough to have ridden on a horse, elephant and camel but never even on an ox-driven cart and truth to be told, it was the most bumpy experience ever! And, we were probably traveling at a snail-slow speed of 5km/hr! LOL.
1,2,3 … and off we go to enjoy the beauty of the countryside from our ox-cart!
Our fantastic hosts – DomDin and Raksa “RockStar”- who welcomed us to their village with open arms. Cambodians are some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met as they are truly sincere and genuine about meeting people from all over the world. Many of them do not have the priviledge of traveling outside of their hometown, let alone venturing out of their country and thus, to them, it’s visits from foreigners that open up their windows to globalization. Despite spending barely a day together, tears were slightly shed when it was time for us to bid farewell as we left the village with a heavy heart. To quote Raksa, “See you when you see me again!”
My boy, the giant!
An experience of a lifetime
You wouldn’t believe it but the 3 of us actually managed to squeeze onto this tiny bike! It was certainly a once-in-a-lifetime experience (that is … till I return to Cambodia or visit another SEA country) to enjoy a 3-people bike ride since this is strictly prohibited in Singapore and many developed countries! Having said that, it was definitely an awkward experience for MK as he was sandwiched between DomDin and me ( i refused to seat in the middle as I wanted more personal space!) and it was a little too close for comfort for him to be seated so close to another guy … If you know what I mean? *Winks* On the other hand, I was having the ride of my life as it gave me an amazing adrenaline rush with my hair blowing in the wind! Yes, there isn’t a regulation for pillion riders to don a safety helmet … another first experience for me!
Another Dream to Share
This excursion to Kro Bei Kiel Community and its 12 villages is an initiative started by the Self Help Community Centre (SHCC), a NGO that provides free educational and vocational opportunities for the village children (about 1000 at last count). Lady luck was on our side as we managed to meet SHCC’s founding director, Sambeth. Like many Cambodians whom we have met during our short trip, Sambeth also has an inspiring story to share.
After years of working the odd jobs and leading a thrifty lifestyle, he managed to save a small amount of money and wanted to escape from the rut that he was stuck in. Yet, he was caught in a dilemma – Either to use the money and head for a long but well-deserved vacation around Cambodia or to put the money to better use. Frankly to speak, most of us would probably spend that amount of money in (1) retail therapy, (2) a vacation to somewhere exotic, (3) the latest technology or (4) investments. However, it wasn’t that case for Sambeth. In the end, the guy settled on the latter as he wanted to make a change in the lives of the future generations. With that goal in mind, he started SHCC and aims to empower the children by providing them with a valuable set of skills to lead a sustainable lifestyle. Some of the courses offered to students include English, Computer Studies ( a kind group of Singaporeans just donated a couple of computers over) and Organic Farming. Having experienced hardship since young, Sambeth wants to educate the children that independence is important and that they have to be self-reliant in order to provide for themselves. Read more about what SHCC does for the community over here.
To inculcate a sense of giving amongst the villagers, SHCC encourages the teenagers/young adults who are either in university or waiting for scholarship/sponsorship to be volunteer trainee tutors to the younger kids. Phen Mab was once a volunteer tutor but his dedication and commitment to the cause has earned him a paid position with SHCC. Despite being young (same age as me!), he is now holding the position of the Head of Education at SHCC and is responsible for the planning of the curriculum for all students. Oh, did I also mention that he’s managing that important position whilst pursuing a degree in English and Literature (!) in University? Very impressive, indeed.
Looking back, both MK and I have been blessed in so many ways to have met such inspiring people like Sambeth, Phen Mab and DomDin, just to name a few. If you could recall from my previous blog entries, some others include Mr Sary from Happy Ranch Horse Farm, Sobey and Touich from The Touich Restaurant, our driver Sun Same and Khwan, the girl tout. Most of them do not yearn for much luxuries in life; in fact, the 1 common thing that they wanted is education. Education, something which they cherish so much and yet, something that we (me included) often take for granted. I was asking Raksa “Rockstar” about his day in school when he replied, “I love to go to school. I learn something new in school everyday!”
Many times, what that makes an overseas trip so memorable and different from the others often boils down to the interaction and conversation that we have with the people – be it locals or other visitors. So far, both MK and I have been extremely lucky as the locals had welcomed us with nothing but warm and sincere hospitality. Our first day in Cambodia ended with an inspiring chat with Mr Sary, the owner of Happy Ranch, who shared with us his passion for horses. A surprise encounter with Khwan, a child tout, was the highlight of our second day and I was bestowed with a free bamboo bracelet! What a delight!
It was no different for us on our third day as we were privileged enough to reserve Sun Same (highly recommended on Trip Advisor) as our personal driver to some of the outlying Angkorian temples. Highly knowledgeable about the history of Cambodia and the various Angkor temples, Sun Same even took the initiative to provide us with a summary/information of each place of interest. Many stories were exchanged as we discussed about our lives, hobbies, countries and the very different lifestyles in Cambodia and Singapore. A funny guy with a sense of humor, he also shared with us some jokes that cracked us up and had us entertained during the very long ride to the outlying temples. Otherwise, I cannot imagine how dreadful it must be to be stuck with a quiet and boring driver! In fact, we still do keep in touch via emails and I’d would highly recommend him to anyone who’s looking for a driver (not tuk tuk) in Siem Reap.
For those who might be keen in Sun Same’s services, do drop by his personal website. 🙂
MK’s views: The highlight of the day was our chartered driver! Sun Same! Corny as the name might sound to you, this dude was phenomenal. Providing us a lot of information and entertainment during our long and tiresome drive from Banteay Srei to Kpal Spean (to see the river with a thousand lingas) and finally to Beng Mealea (the blueprint of AngKor Wat).
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Banteay Srei
Constructed: Late 10th Century C.E. Reign: King Rajendravarman Religion: Hindu Style: Banteay Srei
“Banteay Srei loosely translates to ‘citadel of the women’, but this is a modern appellation that probably refers to the delicate beauty of the carvings. Built at a time when the Khmer Empire was gaining significant power and teeritory, the temple was constructed by a Brahmin counselor under a powerful king, Rajendravarman and later under Jayavarman V. It displays some of the finest examples of classical Khmer art and the walls are densely covered with some of the most beautiful, deep and intricate carvings of any Angkorian temple. The temple’s relatively small size, pink sandstone construction and ornate design give it a fairyland ambiance.”*
Must visit factor: **** out of 5
* : all info from Siem Reap Angkor Visitors’ Guide
Often known as ‘the most beautiful temple in Angkor’, Banteay Srei certainly does not disappoint. It makes up for the lack of size ( it’s really tiny compared to many of the massive temples found within Angkor Park) with its extremely intricate and immaculate carvings. Pity that we did not have the privilege of a personal guide to explain to us the meanings behind these various depictions and carvings. 😦  Moreover, it proved to be a challenge for us to fully enjoy the tranquility of this impressively preserved temple as Banteay Srie was simply too congested with busloads of tourists. Note to all: In order to fully enjoy Banteay Srei in its full glory, do try to get there by 8 – 830am so that you can have the temple to yourself as the tour groups usually arrive by 9am plus.
Nonetheless, Banteay Srei tops our list of the most exquisite and beautiful Angkorian temple that we had ever visited. Gleaming in sandy pink under the sun, Banteay Srei offers a sharp contrast to all the other better-known temples that are grey or brown in colour. If time permits, I’d definitely recommend any visitor to Siem Reap to pay a visit to this well preserved temple as it is simply a sight not to be missed! Enjoy!
Kbal Spean – River of Ten Thousand Lingas
Constructed: 11th – 13th Century C.E. Religion: Hindu/Buddhism
“To begin with, Kbal Spean is not a typical Angkorian temple; instead, it is an ancient site home to 1000 lingas. A sacred sanctuary hidden in a jungle, Kbal Spean features many lingas and mystical religious images that are carved along the river bed. These lingas on the river bed signify fertility and were thus meant to bless the water that flows from the top of Phnom Kulen to Angkor city. In other words, the holy water is essential to ensure success and prosperity of the Khmer Kingdoms.” *
Must visit factor: *** out of 5
* info: Wikipedia
The lure of viewing a myriad of remote carvings on a river bed was too tempting and so, we decided to drop by Kbal Spean which was only a 15 mins drive from Banteay Srei. 45 minutes of hiking up the hill later, we finally reached Kpal Spean where we were treated to a unique sight of elaborate carvings on a river bed. By the way, the hike was moderately manageable though it is still important to practice caution as some parts were slippery and rather steep. One wrong step and you risk fracturing your leg!
Taking our time to enjoy the elaborated carvings, we couldn’t help but ponder how challenging it must be for the ancient people to fight against nature (the rush of water along the riverbed) and still be able to carve out these fine details. It was, indeed, a very impressive display of carvings. Having read many reviews commenting on the remoteness of the place, I expected to see only a handful of tourists. Alas, Kbal Spean is not much different from any of the other tourist sites in Cambodia and the peace and serenity of this sacred place was disturbed by the many visitors in presence. Visit Kbal Spean only if you have the extra time to spare.
Beng Mealea
Constructed: Early 11th Century C.E.
Reign: King Suryavarman II
Religion: Hindu
Style: Angkor Wat
“Sprawling jungle temple covering over 1 square kilometer. The temple is largely overrun by vegetation and very lightly touristed, giving it an adventurous ‘lost temple’ feel. Constructed in a distinctly Angkor Wat style under the same king that built Angkor Wat, Beng Mealea preceded and may have served as a blueprint for the magnificent Angkor Wat. Though there are some lintel and doorway carvings, there are no bas reliefs and the carvings are comparatively sparse.” *
Must visit factor: ***** out of 5
*: info from Siem Reap Angkor Visitor Guide
Well, what can I say? Of all the temples that we had visited, Beng Mealea remains as our favourite temple! Located far from the heart of Siem Reap city, it takes about 2 hours to drive to Beng Mealea. Hence, the remote location of the temple deters many tourists, especially tour groups (Thank God! I have nothing against tours as I have been on many tours before too but seeing them everyday at every single attraction was getting onto our nerves.), from venturing to this extremely spectacular jungle temple.
We were strolling around the grounds of the temple for barely 5 minutes when a local lady (dressed in the Aspara Authority uniform) self-appointed herself as our personal guide. Having read up on Beng Mealea prior to our departure, I kind of expected this and we were, for a moment, caught in a dilemma. Understandably, we should not partake and encourage such ‘scam’ activities (Tipping the guides at the end) but Beng Mealea is a sprawling complex of collapsed rocks and ruins and having a guide to show us around would certainly help. With that thought in mind, we followed our guide, who could barely speak a word of English, as she brought us to remote places inside the unrestored temple that we would have never visited, had we stuck to the main wooden pathway.
For the 2 whole hours, we felt as if our fantasies of becoming an adventurous explorer (come on, let’s admit … Isn’t there an Indiana Jones or Tomb Raider within us?) come alive as we climbed over jumbled piles of collapsed walls, heaps of rubble and rotten trees! As this temple was overrun with enormous trees, one cannot help but wonder what’s in store for us at the next turn or corner. In addition, there were many times when we had the whole temple to ourselves thus enhancing our ‘exploration’ visit in Beng Mealea. Our experience exploring this mysterious crumbling temple felt simply so surreal & awe-striking, much thanks to our helpful guide who made Beng Mealea come alive for us.
Off the beaten ‘tourist’ track : Dark corridors within the temple complex.
Heaps of rubble
Many have compared the more famous jungle temple Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider temple) to Beng Mealea but in all honesty, there is simply no comparison. Ta Prohm is magical and special in its own way but it is crawling with tourists and have undergone through many restoration works to maintain its intentionally jungle look. As such, Ta Prohm looks more manicured. On the other hand, the jungle-clad ruins of Beng Mealea have been left relatively untouched for centuries and is almost completely consumed by thick vegetation. Now, don’t you just want to be like Indiana Jones for a day? A must visit for everyone!
Beng Mealea comes ALIVE! Do take a look at the videos ( pardon the poor quality as I was using my camera instead of a video recorder) for a better idea of just how mysterious the temple is.
Touich Restaurant
Ended the unforgettable day at the highly acclaimed Touich Restaurant. In fact, despite being only a year old, the restaurant is the Number 1 rated restaurant in the whole of Siem Reap! A family-run restaurant, Touich was started by Sobey and his wife, Touich, whom the restaurant was named after. Located in the rustic yet cozy backyard of the family house, Touich Restaurant is located off the usual tourist track but not to fret as Sobey offers free (!) transportation for all diners in his vintage 1964 French Jeep! What a joy ride as we attracted many stares from other tourists during the 10 mins drive.
Take a look at the many raves on this site. Touich offers ‘Khmer fine dining’ on a shoe-string but unlike the small portions offered at many fine dining places, the food portions are huge and most importantly, they do not compromise on the quality. We even overheard a couple of Americans sitting beside us, commenting that it was their best meal ever and never had they been so satisfied! Delectable and mouth-watering cuisine aside, our dining experience was made even more memorable by the warm and welcoming hospitality rendered by Sobey and his family. Service – something that our service personnel in Sg needs to work on.
They have a dream
All that they want is for Touich’s younger siblings to get a proper education and learn to be self-independent. Taking some time out of their busy schedules (full house all nights!), Sobey shared with us his past and visions for the future. Due to the invasion of the Khmer Rouge, Sobey was left an orphan as both his parents were brutally murdered by the heartless and inhumane Khmer Rouge. As such, he was taught to be self-reliant to earn a living for himself since he was a kid and thus wants to instill such values in Touich’s siblings.
The plan? In order to encourage the siblings to be independent, the entrepreneur couple encourages them to work hard-time at the restaurant after school as this will give them the opportunity to practice their English, as well as equip them with more tangible skills ( customer service, cooking, bartending). In return, they will be given a small sum of allowance and be taught to spend this money wisely instead of spending it frivolously on unwanted stuff. Instead of giving them an allowance for free, the couple wants the siblings to work to earn their keeps as this will teach them the importance of money and independence. In fact, one of Touich’s younger brother is now studying to be a lawyer in a law school! It was inspiring to hear such a motivating story from a guy who has certainly been through many hard and tough times.
They have a dream, a dream for the younger generation to learn & believe in themselves.
A 20-something who's out to explore what life has to offer to her. A life of oxymoron. A dreamer who loves to daydream about the perfect life and her aspirations but yet lack the guts to step out of her comfort zone(for now). A life full of choices and sometimes in the midst of making decisions, she finds herself in a struggle between her identity and her alter ego. The girl at the traffic light junction. And, this is the virtual space where she records about her adventures and journey in life ...
blisschic
the girl at the traffic light junction 